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Saturday, April 27, 2013

One pattern four fabrics

I wanted to show one more of the Laurel tops I had in the works.  It is a linen version.  The top part of the shirt was cut from a thrifted linen sheet and the bottom was cut from a big linen dress, the buttons were from a thrifted dress. The lace was given to me by my Mother in Law (thanks Dixie!). I've really wanted to use a lot of my notions lately and this was a perfect spot to highlight them. You can't tell from the picture but the buttons have butterflies on them.


I wanted to use this pattern to experiment with the drape of fabrics and how they perform with the same pattern. Its something I've been trying to learn more about lately. Drape and weight of fabric can really make or break a look. 
This is what I discovered about drape and weight of fabric with the Laurel pattern... 
Linen:  The linen top is a size 6 (a perfect fit for me) and it felt comfortable in linen, although the drape wasn't as pretty as the rayon.  I did fudge the back a bit because I cut the back on the fold but forgot to omit the seam allowance, nothing that an extra seam couldn't fix.  The sleeves are drafted longer and have elastic at the cuff to mimic a peasant blouse.  The linen stands out more from the body but has a pretty, classic shape with the pattern.
Rayon:   I found that the Rayon (below in a size 6) has draped the best for me.
It fit the best in the shoulders and bust area and draped beautifully.  It hugs the body in a forgiving way when combined with this pattern(important when you had a baby 10 months ago).  The sleeves are shortened a bit here.

Cotton:  The gingham (cut in a size 4) is a shirting weight and like a lot of medium weight cottons it had a tendency to stand away from my body more and look (of course) more structured. This was a size too small for me but perhaps it will fit after I stop breastfeeding.  I made the size 4 based on a rayon muslin and quickly learned that the rayon fitting did not translate to a cotton fitting.   The rayon has a tendency to give more and stretch out during construction therefore it can alter your results and its even more important to stay stitch while you sew.
The next cotton was a quilting cotton(below).   
This was a straight quilting cotton made in a size 6 and fit perfectly.  As you can see the drape is different from the rayon and linen.  The cottons, as opposed to the rayon and linen, don't move with my body as easily. 
This has been a fun experiment for me and really solidified the idea that matching pattern with the right fabric has a big impact on how much I want to wear the garment and the look of the finished product.  The Laurel is a pretty quick pattern to sew up thats why I was able to crank out so many and when I finally got the fit right it was a pleasure to sew knowing that the fit would be flattering as well!  I see myself using the pattern many more times in the future.

7 comments:

  1. They all look really nice! I like the rayon one the best, the details on the linen one are really nice too :)

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    1. Thank you! And thanks for reading the post! I've admired your creations as well, especially the red lace dress! I haven't been brave enough yet to do a lace version.

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  2. I just found your blog through the flickr group.. I love your Laurel blouses.. I just got my pattern in, and was looking around for some ideas.
    Thank you for sharing the info on the different fabrics.. Happy sewing.

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    1. Thanks so much! I am glad the info was helpful and I hope your Laurels turn out wonderfully! Happy sewing to you as well!

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  3. Hey Eliz, not sure why my comments are not showing up right here---boo hooo. I think this is my 3rd comment that i have left you. I know you think that I am ignoring your awesome blog, but i promise i am not. Anyway....I love your blouses!! They are sew sweet. I love the gingham style! Lol-that sounds like that crazy song "gangnam style" that is always playing. The handprinted fabric looks amazing, very cute! The very first blouse is so sweet and dainty looking. You did a great job sis! You should be very proud. Sending love to all of you, Holly

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  4. Hey Honey, love the tops. The pics of you are so good and of course the little ones in the background are precious. Iam going to sew my blouse this week too. lol.
    love mom

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  5. Thanks Mom! Glad you are going to get to sew that top, let me know if you like the fit! So good to visit with yall! Love E

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Comments are always welcome!